![]() ![]() I don’t know what a Solution would provide vs Otaki especially since they don’t smear well and I’d switch for anything super smeary or cave like. I used some insanely small/slippery micro edges to do Green Wall Center and felt pretty secure as I also have on thin Sierra granite. I like the precision of the Instinct and don’t feel I need any more aggressiveness. Since I’m mostly doing bouldering and sport is a distant second I’m not sure what makes the most sense as a 3rd place. What I’m trying to figure out is if the Testarossa become redundant with the Futura or Solution in the mix? Sometimes I like only having 2 main choices and potentially one 3rd niche choice. I’m still figuring out sizing and coming from 41.5 Scarpa as being a half size up from the smallest I can possibly climb in, went with a 40 Skwama at first and it’s pretty gnarly. Thanks for the replies! I tried a Futura that I think was too small and the heel kept slipping off, but the rest felt comfy. I have a wide low volume forefoot and narrow heel with narrow instep. I wouldn't mind only having 2 pairs- one soft and one edgy or at most 3 pairs with one being more specialized. Testarossa won't toe hook as well, but seems like it would climb the same. Over time the blue tension band gets weird and they pull the heel cup off of my heel. Lots of big toe power, soft but can edge well. Probably have 15% of my hard sends in them. Both of these shoes were awesome for overhung sport/boulders. The no edge felt weird on the Tension board. I tried Futuras briefly, but they were not the right size. The Drago is super soft, but Skwama might be soft enough. Probably have 50% of my hard sends in them. Also have sport climbed and climbed trad once in them. Use these for most gym climbing, sandstone bouldering, anything where you smear, pull, or need to focus toe power. Tried on Solutions once and they felt like a clunkier Instinct, but very precise. But, I know the Otaki Edge better and Solutions edge well. Seems that the Skwama edge well enough and are like the VSR, which is slightly softer. Probably have 35% of my hard sends in them. Use for granite bouldering, technical bouldering/sport, stuff where I need an edge or foot tension. The following are what I currently use/why and what I was thinking of replacing them with: Used Scarpas for a while, but the heel is slightly too big and I get deadspace in every model. ![]()
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